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Exposure Compensation

A recent piece of Intel offered some good advice on adjusting your camera settings to produce more pleasing product photos. Unfortunately, some some of the details were incorrect, and might make it difficult for photographers to take advantage of the otherwise good ideas. The main problem is related to what the author refers to as “exposure”, and they suggest you will find this in your manual. Exposure will appear throughout your camera handbook, but to follow the Intel, you will need to look for exposure compensation.

Not every camera includes the ability to compensate for subjects which trick the exposure meter, but it is such a useful feature, and so easy to use, that if you are in the market for a camera, this is one of the first things you should look for: I wouldn’t buy a camera that didn’t offer it.

The correct exposure on you camera is calculated by the exposure meter and adjusted by changing how long the sensor (or film)is exposed to light (the shutter speed) and the size of the opening that lets the light through (the aperture).

Shutter speed is measured in fractions of second (1/200, 1/1000) and aperture in f stops (the ratio of focal length to lens diameter). Confusingly, the bigger the f stop number, the smaller the opening.

There are many situations where your camera will not get the exposure quite right. Snow scenes, backlit subjects, small dark areas against a bright background, light areas in a dark setting, highly reflective surfaces.... The results are pictures that are too dark (under exposed: not enough light got to the sensor) or too pale (overexposed: so much light got in that it swamped the sensor). Exposure Compensation is the easiest way to ...er..compensate.

The range of compensatiion varies from camera to camera but 2 or 3 “stops” is pretty common. The compensation is applied in either 1/2 stop or 1/3 stop increments (sometimes indicated as, say .3 rather than 1/3) up to the maximum available and allows the exposure to be shifted in either direction. that is, you will have a scale something like -2..-1..0..+1..+2 where each dot represent 1/3 of a stop so you can add stops (+side) to compensate for underexposure, or subtract stops (-side) if you have overexposed.

One full stop is equivalent to doubling (or halving) the amount of light that reaches the sensor. The normal sequence is for the camera to try to alter the aperture when you apply compensation. If that isn’t possible, it will adjust the shutter speed instead or as well. This can affect the depth of field or allow camera shake to affect your photos, so be aware of the possibility if these are critical to the shot.

Contributed by David Rich on February 19, 2008, at 6:21 PM UTC.

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This intel was contributed by David Rich


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